Sewing conondrum
Sep. 2nd, 2010 10:42 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
aprilstarchildI have a few lolita brands on my google feed: Emily Temple Cute (half their stuff is OMG want, the other half is WTF is that?), and Metamorphose.
I can't afford either, and I don't know if I ever will...can I really justify $150 for a skirt? $200 or $300 for a dress? Probably not. Boo.
Which means I often stare down the little pictures and try to figure out, how would I sew that? The problem is....I'm not a very experienced sewer.
This skirt is really throwing me for a loop:
Website with photos and unhelpful design drawing!
So, I don't think the waist has any boning in it, does it? If it does, it's gotta be some pretty bendy plastic.
But....the side lacing. Obviously the panels underneath are elasticized. I can't figure out if it's actual channels, or just elastic thread shirring. Brand uses both for different garments, for instance dresses almost always have channels of elastic in the back, plus lacing. Which I think is genius...not only does the sizing become more flexible, but it makes the dress flattering and more comfortable.
So my first thought is, hm, let's say the panels make up a third of the waist circumference when I'm wearing it. The panels, pulled flat, would have to make up the difference between my waist measurement, and just big enough to get it over my hips. I can do that kind of math. I think.
But then! Oh no. I realize--they've put an invisible zipper in there. I can see the pull in the side-photo. And I realize: putting that much fabric in the side panels (to be able to pull the skirt on, unlaced) would make them kinda ugly and bunchy. You'd want just enough to justify the lacing, I suppose.
How the hell, do you make a lined skirt, with elasticized lace-up panels, and put in an invisible zipper?! I know my spatial logic isn't fantastic, but I cannot wrap my mind around how you'd even do that. I'm guessing the panels must just have that elastic thread shirring, since you can do that after the rest of the skirt is finished, right? Or do you do that before you sew all the waistband pieces together?
Brain....melting....
All I know is, I love the design. And if I made a dark-colored skirt that resembled it, and one of those JJ blouses from Burda in black, I'd have a great outfit for every Vampire Masquerade I attended, ever. Which might make up for the fact that I'm never going to own the Vampire Requiem dress from Baby, The Stars Shine Bright. *sigh*
If you're curious, Metamorphose's English blog is here. They have a ruffle-backed coat now...OMG...you can get it in brown...but I think the ruffles would catch on my bike seat every time I got off the seat for stoplights etc.
Okay. Time to take a shower and put on boring clothes and then do laundry. And yes, I edited this post, like, twice.
I can't afford either, and I don't know if I ever will...can I really justify $150 for a skirt? $200 or $300 for a dress? Probably not. Boo.
Which means I often stare down the little pictures and try to figure out, how would I sew that? The problem is....I'm not a very experienced sewer.
This skirt is really throwing me for a loop:
Website with photos and unhelpful design drawing!
So, I don't think the waist has any boning in it, does it? If it does, it's gotta be some pretty bendy plastic.
But....the side lacing. Obviously the panels underneath are elasticized. I can't figure out if it's actual channels, or just elastic thread shirring. Brand uses both for different garments, for instance dresses almost always have channels of elastic in the back, plus lacing. Which I think is genius...not only does the sizing become more flexible, but it makes the dress flattering and more comfortable.
So my first thought is, hm, let's say the panels make up a third of the waist circumference when I'm wearing it. The panels, pulled flat, would have to make up the difference between my waist measurement, and just big enough to get it over my hips. I can do that kind of math. I think.
But then! Oh no. I realize--they've put an invisible zipper in there. I can see the pull in the side-photo. And I realize: putting that much fabric in the side panels (to be able to pull the skirt on, unlaced) would make them kinda ugly and bunchy. You'd want just enough to justify the lacing, I suppose.
How the hell, do you make a lined skirt, with elasticized lace-up panels, and put in an invisible zipper?! I know my spatial logic isn't fantastic, but I cannot wrap my mind around how you'd even do that. I'm guessing the panels must just have that elastic thread shirring, since you can do that after the rest of the skirt is finished, right? Or do you do that before you sew all the waistband pieces together?
Brain....melting....
All I know is, I love the design. And if I made a dark-colored skirt that resembled it, and one of those JJ blouses from Burda in black, I'd have a great outfit for every Vampire Masquerade I attended, ever. Which might make up for the fact that I'm never going to own the Vampire Requiem dress from Baby, The Stars Shine Bright. *sigh*
If you're curious, Metamorphose's English blog is here. They have a ruffle-backed coat now...OMG...you can get it in brown...but I think the ruffles would catch on my bike seat every time I got off the seat for stoplights etc.
Okay. Time to take a shower and put on boring clothes and then do laundry. And yes, I edited this post, like, twice.
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no subject
Date: 2010-09-02 11:49 pm (UTC)Worst case scenario, you forget about the zipper and just pull it on over yr head. The difference between my waist and hip measurements means that this is the only way I can wear a number of skirts that are full enough in the hip that they fit me just fine, but would never be able to be pulled up, zipper or no.
no subject
Date: 2010-09-02 11:53 pm (UTC)This makes it make sense to me so ask me if it is unclear :)
no subject
Date: 2010-09-03 12:19 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-03 12:51 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-03 12:18 am (UTC)There are indeed two panels of lacing/shirring, but I'm working with the assumption that, when worn, the two panels together are somewhere between a third and half of the total waistband measurement. They're not wide enough to be half.
My bust measurement is only a few inches short of my hip measurement, so pulling it over my head probably wouldn't work very well, unless I want to wiggle into it like a worm or something.
no subject
Date: 2010-09-03 12:55 am (UTC)Is it just a matter of figuring out what measurements to use?
I find it much easier to maneuver my tits (i.e. pressing them down, lifting one, etc etc to get into a waistband than my ass....lol.
no subject
Date: 2010-09-03 01:20 am (UTC)But, I'm just confused on what order to do things in, I guess. I mean, I think I've got it--if it's just elastic thread shirring, that's waaaaaay simpler.
Putting an invisible zipper into a lined skirt might be "fun."
quick thoughts
Date: 2010-09-03 05:02 am (UTC)Front and back panels don't.
Definitely agree that there is an invisible zipper in back panel. When I put one into a lined item I attach it to the outer shell then hand tack the lining to it about 1/4" away so it's less likely to get caught in it.
I would personally put boning at the edges of where the lacing is. I have found that if you don't do that the lacing makes it crumple with out that support. I recommend using spiral boning (can be purchased at Fabric Depot)instead of plastic because the plastic stuff breaks down so quickly. Especially at a bendy point in your body. (pardon the technical term :P)
It is likely elastic thread shirring as you said, but I don't know about before or after. It's not something I've done often enough to give advice.
Hope I helped :)
no subject
Date: 2010-09-04 02:20 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-07 03:52 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-07 03:53 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-07 03:54 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2010-09-08 09:15 am (UTC)