Sewing pattern sizes are effed up

[aprilstarchild]

I do not understand the sizing on sewing pattern envelopes. Actually, I don't understand clothing sizes in general, as I run across this when I look at the measurements for ready-made clothes as well.

So I tend to think that I am rather large-busted for my waist size. For example, I recently purchased a bra secondhand, an underwire Chantelle bra. (As an aside--it's a wonderfully made bra, and when I looked it up, it would have been about $80 new. I paid $5 and it's not very worn. Score!) According to the label, I'm a 32DD. Those are not itty bitty titties. According to Victoria's Secret, I'm a 34D, and depending on the brand in general, I'm generally in the range of 32DD to 34C or D.

Although, lordy, this Chantelle bra fits so damn good, I dunno if I'm ever gonna buy Victoria's Secret again. The center bit lies completely flat and there is no gapping or bulging anywhere. It is bra heaven. I haven't been in the habit of wearing underwire bras (other than for fancy outfits) in a while and I've been wearing this one almost every day.

Anyway. My bust and hip measurements are always several sizes smaller than my waist measurement. So either my bust and hips are tiny compared to my waist (well, my hips might be) or my waist is large.

What. The fuck. I do not think I have a big waist. I mean, yeah, when I gain weight it goes to my tummy first, but even then, I'm hardly out of proportion or anything.

I read a sewing blog where the woman said she just went by the bust size for sewing patterns, and even though her waist should be too small, things fit just fine. I know that most patterns give a lot of ease (one reason I haven't sewn much, because I like things like tops to be rather fitted).

Meh. I think I need to just measure the pattern pieces before I cut them and compare them to my actual measurements. I can always futz around with them. Isn't being able to do that, half the point of sewing your own clothes?

Thank goodness that simple lolita skirts are so dang easy to sew. I used an online tutorial with pictures to make that half-elastic waist skirt for the tweed ride, but the tutorial is obviously meant for making a little girl's skirt, and not a very full one at that. I'm thinking of doing one of my own specifically for adult women. They're so damn easy that any lolita with a sewing machine who knew the absolute basics (like how to use your machine and gather) could make them. And you only need a yard and a half of fabric! I want to learn to make detachable waist ties next. I think I might just trace the ties of my bodyline dress + seam allowance for a pattern.

Comments

[aprilstarchild.livejournal.com]

Well, I know that I'm about a 12 in sewing patterns and about a 5 or so in new ready-made. I can kinda date an item of clothing based on what size they think I am--I have an early-60's wool skirt that says I'm an 11 (it also has a union tag!), and my mid-70's dresses say I'm a 7 or 9.

But...even new ready-made, the proportions are off. And they're off in the same way for most of the women I know. Like in jeans--if we can get it over our hips and butt, there's a gap in the back of the waist. If there's no gap in the back waist, they're too tight on our hips and butt.

Oddly, the brand of pants that seems to fit me best is Forever 21. Conveniently cheap new, and easy to find secondhand at places like Buffalo Exchange! Apparently I have the body of a teenager? Really?

[aprilstarchild.livejournal.com]

Hah, I am such a beginner seamstress. I can follow a basic sewing pattern, but I know where all my mistakes are. I am thankful that lolita skirts are all rectangles and made from fairly thick woven fabric. Way easy to sew.

[aeonflux1973.livejournal.com]

I have to say, that I would love to be able to find bras for $5 that fit like the ones I have now.

They are $68 each. :( I'm pretty sure that the people who buy the size that I wear, wear their bra's til they fall apart. :)

[aprilstarchild.livejournal.com]

I have several friends who wear larger bra sizes than I do, who generally buy their clothes secondhand or cheaply new, who have bras of about $150 apiece and believe them to be worth every cent. I can't fathom spending that much, but then, I can get away with buying American Apparel bras that are just cotton jersey and elastic...my boobs don't give me backaches. (They hurt like a motherfucker before/during my period though.)

I personally think I just struck it lucky this one time. Although now I'm more inspired to spend time looking through the bra section of any Value Village I visit.

You might hit it lucky....there's always a chance someone changed sizes and donated the old one.

[ourglasslake.livejournal.com]

I am lucky enough to find some 34DDs *occasionally*...I couldn't count on thrifting for all my bra needs, but I always look!

[ourglasslake.livejournal.com]

We are total opposites in some ways: I have a vintage skirt labeled medium, though there is no way in hell this ass is a medium. I also find that vintage dresses that fit me best are several sizes smaller than what I would wear new, though that is partly because of the tailored waist/poofy hip styles I look for.

According to most size charts, I'm at least 3 different sizes: smallest for my waist, then the next largest for my bust, and then one or two sizes up from the waist for my hips. Yeah, this is why I never used to buy dresses.

[aprilstarchild.livejournal.com]

Finding a dress that fits can be such a pain in the ass, 'cause it's gotta fit everywhere!

I'm all about the poofy skirts. Just gimme a couple big rectangles gathered into a waistband and I'm happy.

[crowgod.livejournal.com]

I have nothing constructive to add to this post other to admit I enjoy reading posts about your boobies.... :p

[aprilstarchild.livejournal.com]

Just last night, apropos of nothing, while at a pub, my friend Chris said, "So not to piss off Shawn or anything....but have your boobs always been that big? Me and Shadz [his girlfriend] were wondering." I just cracked up laughing and then said, "So, you and your girlfriend sit around talking about my boobs?" "Well, um,....yes." LOL!!

This is the same guy who, drunk at a party, asked me to flash everyone. I responded, "You've seen them!" "Well, yeah, but they never get old!"

Now that I think about it, you and Chris might get along.

[crowgod.livejournal.com]

Introduce us if/when I get back to the U.S. I like his train of thought. and I like that while I haven't thought about your boobs since I posted my comment, your reply got me thinking about them all over again. :)

[mandamagpie.livejournal.com]

Hmm. I'll have to try out one of those bras. It's hard to find a good bra if you have a small rib cage but bigger cups.

[aprilstarchild.livejournal.com]

Ugh, I know. The middle part is almost always too big, and either doesn't lie flat at all, or has little bulging gaps on either side.

I didn't get big boobs until I was older (when I graduated high school, I was about an A and a half, thank you birth control pills), so sometimes I'm still startled by the size of bra my boobs fit into. Every now and then I'll hold one up and think to myself, HOLY SHIT, my boobs really fill these?

Near my period, they get even bigger, but they're so painful it's not really a positive thing at all.

[(Anonymous)]

I have to agree on pattern sizes. I hate them. I go with my biggest measurement, which is my hips. Unless it's a full skirt with lots of ease there. Then I have to think about taking it in for my smaller parts, but I'm terrible at that. I have lots of ill-fitting homemade garments!

robyn
http://www.roadyjane.blogspot.com

[aprilstarchild.livejournal.com]

Which is why I was always wary of sewing as a hobby--to do it well is much more time-consuming, making muslins and all that.

Out of curiosity, how did you find my LJ?

I'm with you!

[weeona.livejournal.com]

I'm a 32/27/33(!) and my bust/hips put me in a 0/2 while my waist plops me in a 6, I think. My jeans are all 2/4s and I fit into 4s for dresses... but what the hell charts? I mean, I know I have a "wide" waist but geez.

I always feel so weird when my waist size is so much larger than the others.
Damn apple shape.

Re: I'm with you!

[aprilstarchild.livejournal.com]

A friend of mine used to work with her mom for Nike, and their job was making sure that sample garments fit the way they intended, and so they were always looking for human fit models.

Thing is, the size that Nike's clothes are sewn for? VERY FEW women have those measurements. They wanted, like, 5'6" women who were 34C and had 26 inch waists, or something asinine like that.

Um....the average height in the USA is 5'4". I'm 5'2", and I don't know of many women who are four inches taller than me but are still a 34C with a 26 inch waist.

So in other words: It's just as we suspected: most clothes are made for someone who isn't average in any way!

Re: I'm with you!

[seams-unusual.livejournal.com]

not average, but---
*right* when I met Marty,I was 5 foot 7. I had a 34 or 36 C. and a 23-26 waist. I weighed 126 pounds.

Then it all went to hell! :-D

Re: I'm with you!

[aprilstarchild.livejournal.com]

And by "went to hell" you mean "I found food I enjoyed eating." LOL! Not a bad thing!

Its all true!

[seams-unusual.livejournal.com]

Every time I look into what size the pattern says my measurements mean,I end up wondering if I'm more "columnar" than I thought I was. My waist is way bigger than than my boobs/hips (or lack of hips) say I should be.
Chantelle sounds like good bra. After I get paid in March or April, may have to look them up.
Loli skirts: isn't it better to make them out of gourds rather than rectangles? You don't want it to be so-poofed-that-it's-sloppy at the waistband....?

Re: Its all true!

[aprilstarchild.livejournal.com]

Near as I can tell, except for the specifically a-line skirts, they're all gathered (or pleated) panels. Partially because the traditional lolita shape is referred to as "cupcake" shaped, partially so they won't mar the prints on brand-name dresses and skirts. Those prints are part of the reason that brands can charge such insane amounts for their stuff--no one else (until someone makes a knockoff) sells that print. Let's face it, there's only so much fussing you can do with the dress shapes themselves or they won't sell because they won't look "lolita," but you can have all sorts of fun with limited-edition print fabric with a logo in it.

Re: Its all true!

[seams-unusual.livejournal.com]

I know all the panels get gathered, but there would be less to gather at the top if the panel got narrower at the top. I tend to be especially fussy over that particular area of my body, so I thought I'd bring it up... :-P